Since I started using the mill making warps longer than my usual, I've noticed something interesting. I've been having mild tension 'issues' indicative of inconsistent tension during beaming. After observing this happening several times, I've come to the conclusion that longer warps need higher tension while going onto the beam.
I have yet to 'prove' this by beaming with more weight, so I will do that with the next warp. The difference in length isn't so much that you would think there would be a problem, but the longer the warp, the larger the diameter of the beam. Perhaps it has something to do with that. Or not. I don't know the reason, I'm just reporting my observations....
There are many people on the internet who stoutly maintain that you must not wind the yarn off the end of a tube. They give the reason that winding off the end of the tube will either add or subtract twist depending on the direction the yarn is wound.
You will notice that I have my tubes on a 'post' and I most definitely take directly off the tube from the end. However, I always set my tubes up so that they wind off the same direction.
I don't know if I'm adding or subtracting twist - have never bothered to figure it out. I just do what I do consistently.
Why do I prefer to take it off the end of the tube? I don't have to 'fight' with the spin of the tube, jerking and dragging or casting off more yarn than I need just at that moment and worse, wrapping that excess yarn around the axle on which the tube is placed. In the end I feel I get better results - more consistent tension as I wind my warps.
As always, Your Mileage May Vary....
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3 comments:
I have found that the buildup on the warping reel can have an effect on the tension of the beamed warps. At one time, I blithely made each warp as one bout, but now I divide up each warp into multiple bouts, hoping to overcome the inherent difference in length from the first winding to the last. (Though I usually use the warping wheel and make sectional warps, there are still times when a reel is the right tool.)
The AVL horiizontal reel that I had was made to offset the warp bouts so that they did not build up on the mill. The idea is that your chain would be the same length. That is great for measuring your warp correctly but I don't think it would account for inconsistent tension as you weave. I beam with heads and no packing on my plain beams. I get the warp pulled on very tightly. I don't have the warping valet. At one time I had the AVL drum and it can pull the warp better than 4 Swedish women. Probably the biggest factor for an even warp is the diameter of the warp beam. My 40" AVL weaves better with the sectional beam used as a plain beam when I get over 20 yards of a not too fine warp.
The way the warp is behaving, it appears to be a lack of tension during beaming, worse at the beginning, getting better as I weave. I added 2 cups of water to each of my jugs (I don't wind more than 15" wide chains) and beamed a towel warp tonight. Will see how it weaves tomorrow. Change one thing, and everything can change! :)
cheers,
Laura
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